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Rockford,il

All my shrubs and flower beds have wood mulch on top of the soil.It keeps the roots cool while the top of plant gets heat from sun.Mulching helps keep soil temps constant,prevents soil from drying out and keeps weed growth to a mimimum.Exposed soil dries out quickly and I have found that roots that are cooler grow a larger plant.So I ask ,why dont we mulch the pumpkin as it grows?Has anyone tried this and if so how did it work?

10/20/2004 10:06:33 PM

[email protected]

Most mulches use Nitrogen as they decompose. Hardwood mulches especially draft Nitrogen. Others like Pine Needles acidify the soil & wouldn't make a good choice.

I used some Premier Pro-Mix this year as a mulch in part of the patch & found it did keep down weeds.

I've never had the guts to try Cedar mulch. Cedar decomposes slowly & repels some insects because of the aromatic oils cedar contains.

I'd like to hear from someone who tried this too.

10/20/2004 10:13:53 PM

Menomonie, WI ([email protected])

Pumpkins like warm soil.

10/21/2004 6:29:44 AM

Long Island,New York

because pumpkins like warm roots

10/21/2004 10:41:06 AM

Garden State Pumpkins

Mulch might give some bugs trouble but many love to hide under the bark...along with moles etc...They suck nitrogen as steve said to decompose and if your growin your hoeing..no if ands or buts...

10/21/2004 10:41:19 AM

In the shade - PDX, OR

Great question!
There have been many other gardeners that use this technique.
It just hasn't made the bridge over to the culture of AGs yet.

I like to mulch with nearly finished compost (when it is avalilable).

10/21/2004 12:07:39 PM

Cologne / Germany

Have been using quite a lot sorts of mulch in the last years (in the garden, not on the patch). Instruction usually is to apply 2 inches of mulch onto the top soil, no tilling. Pretty much stuff and expensive too depending on the size of your garden.

I never found any benefit. The weeds don´t care, the stuff itself needs to be refreshed every winter (if it´s still there, otherwise you need to start over with mulching). Furthermore I never knew if it changed the soil values depending on the sort of mulch - look what Steve said.

Personally, I won´t mulch again. Just to keep some plants away from winter frost, that´s all.

10/21/2004 12:52:09 PM

Oz

I fert.soak straw and mix it with dirt,
then straw semi weaved,
along the vine.

10/21/2004 6:06:38 PM

Oz

Check your local news paper printing shop.
the tail rolls have hundreds of ft of paper mulch.

10/21/2004 6:08:22 PM

Oz

CEDAR IS GREAT BOARDER CONTROL.
MIX WITH "CRUSHER RUN DUST"

10/21/2004 6:10:44 PM

[email protected]

Hmmmm......

Soil temps? Wait for soils to warm first as in any other crop.

Slugs aren't repelled by Cedar. In fact, they seem to like it.

Straw...I'd be concerned about mice.

I think properly made compost could work well.

10/21/2004 7:02:23 PM

KENTUCKY

I used finished compost this year as a mulch on 1 plant. Referring to prior posts, I started mulching after the soil warmed up, I mulched as the vines grew, mulching with the compost every other day to keep up with the vines, I also used the compost to bury the vines above the soil. When my plant was complete in growing (after I terminated all vines) and concentrating on fruit growth, the entire area of plant had 4-6 inches of compost as mulch.
One thing I know for sure was, extremely less weeds (nearly 0), soil was easy to keep moist, had very little wilt during heat of day (cool summer here, too), and I grew more than 300 pounds more than last year (1028.5 pounds). I will definetly do again next year on at least 2 plants. It takes ALOT, I mean ALOT of compost to do that. The compost I used I started last fall. (horse manure probably 14-18 truck loads, and leaves about 1500 bags). I mixed all together last fall and turned it all about once every 2 weeks with tractor and loader through the winter (man that stuff was HOT, I mean cooking hot through the winter). From the start of the pile last fall, to using it this summer, the pile was maybee 1/4th size after composting up. So you will need space to make alot at once to use as a compost/mulch.
My rambling is done now, Good luck!

Mike

10/21/2004 7:42:37 PM

Topsfield, Ma.

I'll chime in here. Been mulching a 1200 sq ft patch for at least 4 years now with shredded maple leaves, anywhere from 4-6" in depth. I have no weeding issues, but I've also rotted the stumps the last two seasons. I was focusing on the drip lines until this post came up, as the cause. I mulch for weed issues and because we routinely get watering bans which I feel compelled to observe, to some degree...
I think I'll lay off the mulch altogether or at least in the stump area and rethink the drip lines. Some local growers had banner seasons because they cut back in certain areas and ceased "killing their fruits with kindness!"

10/21/2004 8:08:14 PM

Amherst, WI

I always use grass clippings for mulching the pumpkins and other veges as well. This keeps the weeds down, and holds in moisture. As the grass clippings break down, they are benificial to the soil.

10/21/2004 9:52:31 PM

Indiana

Grass clippings work great, wish i could get more.

10/22/2004 12:15:47 AM

Oz

The snakes take care of the mice.

10/22/2004 11:35:36 AM

Greencastle, PA

I mulch with grass clippings, they keep the weeds down, hold in heat and moisture. It also doesn't affect soil much (as far as i know) and in the fall you just dig it all under and it breaks down in the soil for next year.
Tom

10/22/2004 9:51:17 PM

Northeast

I have used peat moss several years at a 3 inch depth, works well no weeds , keeps the moisture in, only draw back i know of is its expensive and tends to acidify the soil over time. Any input here I would appreciate i want to do it again if its ok. Dave

10/23/2004 12:07:49 PM

Montoursville, PA

Mother Nature mulches all that is in her care. The cover becomes one of maybe half an inch to three quarters of an inch of mixed leaves and grasses a year. Anything that falls to earth or is placed on the earth remains compost until it decomposes and becomes humus. It does not effect the soil one bit because it is not, in the soil. When composted between the soil and the remaining mulch to be composted the PH returns to about 7.0 in the humus. This is true of any living matter that rots. When humus is the fact natural bacteria will convert it to humates which better any soil it is in contact with. If the humus is mixed with the soil it betters all soil factors. Where we get into trouble is overdoing all that we seem to do. Emulate mother's average natural mulch and you can not make an error.

11/25/2004 9:16:02 PM