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Omaha, NE (N41-15-42 )

I dug up one of my stumps today. The length of the lateral roots was interesting, and was just what I had expected to see. I was horribly disappointed though that the main root was only 12" deep. I have heard that they grow 3-4' deep. Now, we had a lot of rain, but I also built up 6' diameter 36" high hills for these plants, so I guessed it would drain better. Does any have any thoughts or suggestions. Is it just a water issue? I plan to raise the patch next year and not plant on hills.

Photos are at http://pumpkinlog.wickless.com/imgp2584.jpg
(lateral roots)
and http://pumpkinlog.wickless.com/imgp2588.jpg
(main root)

Thanks,

Matt

9/24/2004 12:43:39 PM

Western Pa.

Before you raise it, PLOW it! As deep as you can get!

9/24/2004 1:01:25 PM

[email protected]

That is curious. It wouldn't be detectable in those photos, but look for small areas of soft brown tissue on those roots.

Genetics plays a role in root depth & density & this could be part of the issue. Time spent in pots before planting out can also have profound impact.

9/24/2004 1:02:43 PM

Long Island,New York

You mean roots arent supposed to be brown?..............G

9/24/2004 3:11:37 PM

Northern Cambria, Pa.

I have never seen pumpkin roots go more than 12" deep.

9/24/2004 3:17:39 PM

Appalachian Mtns.

That concurs with how several of my pumpkin-split plants looked from this year...797 Handy and 730 Stellpflug. In 18" raised beds, tilled down 2' below that.
You built up 3' high hills?

9/24/2004 3:46:00 PM

Key West, FL

ya, I've never seen roots go more than 12" deep either.

9/24/2004 3:50:21 PM

Wichita, KS

last year I my main tap root went down about 4 feet. I have pulled three plants this year tha had equally long taps, but they only went down about 6 inches, then went horizontal. I attribute this to the hard clay in my new patch. Nothing has ever been grown here before, so Its only been plowed once.

Incidentally, the plants I pulled with horizontal tap roots never set fruit. Lots of aborts, though. I will be interested to see the taps on the plants that still have fruit.

9/24/2004 4:42:45 PM

I'm with Gordon... GO UTES!

It's an interesting topic... if you start your seedlings in
pots, the tap root will hit the bottom before the seed leaves
clear the soil. I just had a weird thought: Why not start the
plants in Pringles cans (first cut in half, then reassembled
with tape)...

9/24/2004 6:07:40 PM

Rhode Island

matt

a lot of good suggestions have been mentioned
please allow me to say also that we had problems last season because of a hard pan layer of green manure that had been buried over three ft down several years back

we complicated matters at that time by driving heavy equipment over to spred it around
for the next two seasons we could not get roots to develope properly, drainage was terrible, and no oxygen was getting down into the layers of soil that you must have for root developement

last fall we had the patch " backhoed " down approximately four ft and this year our roots were much improved, our drainage was super and the plants developed larger and faster than the previous two years

if you havent done so you need ( especially with a new patch ) to get a professional soil lab to review for you

various ratios like calcium to magnesium, etc need to be balls on for proper nutrient uptake and release of minor nutrients ( tremor can explain this in a more techinal way, hes an ace at soil structure )

hope this helps
dick

9/24/2004 6:16:14 PM

Lloydminster/AB

Hmmm... soil temp?

9/24/2004 7:56:29 PM

Omaha, NE (N41-15-42 )

this was an 1133.4 Demers (845x898). It was direct seeded in the hill on May 20th, after the previous plant snapped off in the wind. Thanks for all you thoughts and suggestions!

9/24/2004 11:23:27 PM

Colorado Hail, CO. Elev. 5,900 FT

I could really have a field day with this topic! Without getting into too much detail, here are 4 things that are a MUST to remember...]


1} roots need oxygen. Organic matter releases carbon dioxide when microbs are activly busy. The less oxygen, the less root formations. Oxygen in the soil is lost by compaction, excessive H2O, hardpans,pathogens, and UFO visits to earth.

2}Soil temps affect root growth, hormones produced within the plants, nutrients made available for plants, and plant growth. Soil excessively hot or cold have profound effects on roots and growth.

3}Nutrients and the cation exchange must be perfect for ideal growth {see Tremor}.The more balanced, the better the results....

4}Soil structure {clay vs sand} play very important roles. Know your soil type better than you know your wife or family! Give it what that soil type needs once a year, and TEST... TEST... TEST!

9/26/2004 12:24:49 PM

[email protected]

Don't forget to add Calcined Clay like Pro's Choice Soilmaster to increase soil CEC & Oxygenation. Also great improve drainage. Up to one Ton per 1,000 sq ft when worked into the top 12".

We backhoed the holes this year to 3 feet & added Soilmaster to the entire strata. Though I split most of the fruit, our roots sure looked good! LOL

9/26/2004 1:52:54 PM