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Omaha, NE (N41-15-42 )

waited until it was really hot, but it still cracked on me while trying to anchor. Crack is perpendicular to vine through about 30% of vine about 8 feet from stump. I was reading some other posts on this, and just want to be relatively certain of the correct route to take. Is it correct that with perpendicular cracks, you terminate and train secondary and with parallel cracks you patch and bury? Which secondary then, do you train, closer to the stump or closer to the end of the main vine?

Many Thanks,

Matt Wickless

6/23/2004 7:30:46 PM

Arizona

we really need to start a 1016 and 1230 crack club? mine was only about and 1in long so it healed up on it's own.

Just stick with it!

Jeff

6/23/2004 8:40:51 PM

South Hill, Virginia

In 2002 I did the same thing. What was suggested to me at the time, and what I did was prune the main back to the closest secondary and trained that in its place. It got just a big as the main and I ended up setting my best pumpkin on it.

6/23/2004 10:50:52 PM

Monrovia, CA

Ok..this post relates to the next one...I am trying to decide which plant to leave...the 1230 or the 1167. I went out and discovered a large crack right at the base of the 1230, going from ground level up about 3 inches..... I mean it is split wide open. Should I let this influence my decision on chosing a plant? Is it still better to leave the 1230 and work with the split or go with the 1167 which doesn't show any problem?
Thanks everone!
Michelle

6/23/2004 11:07:55 PM

Long Island,New York

Assuming the split is along the vine and not across the vine.........I would still go with a proven great seed that shows no outward signs of doubling/flattening over a less proven less successful (and less split) plant....I'd still go with the 1230.......G
BTW....my main vine cracked across the vine about 2/3rds through, less than 1 foot BEFORE the fruit (between the "stump" and the fruit) last year....still managed a 572 lber.

6/24/2004 9:09:06 AM

Monrovia, CA

It sounds good to me...I'll go cull th 1167 (ARGH..I hate that part) and baby the parallel split on the 1230. THere are no outward signs of doubling or flattening..though the vine is only about 3 feet long (I got a late start)Thankyou so much!!

6/24/2004 9:41:52 AM

Vermont Green MTN State

@#%*!!!! WIND!!!

I have a crack in every one of my plants somewhere. there was a storm while I was away one weekend. Glad I bought the Captin!!! They are are not bad and run along not across. I am a first timer so I hope I did the right things. I put the Captin right to um' & let them dry. Then I covered the vine with dirt in hopes roots would grow from the nearest leaf notch. one I twist tied together, it could not be covered. the plans look great it does not seem they have been effected. I am worried that maybe I will have less of a pumkin?
Doeski

6/24/2004 11:26:35 AM

Cincinnati,OH

The main on my 636 Dill got a perpendicular crack through about 30% of the vine about 3 weeks ago. I simply staked the vine to prevent any more movement. The crack has now healed over with a big knot. I think it will work out fine.If the vine was cracked any more than 1/3 I was going to prune it.

6/24/2004 4:13:30 PM

Ljubljana, Slovenia

We have extremely wet weather here in Slovenia.. as seems to be the case in all Europe and North America. My 636 Dill cracked on all vines: a part of the vine simply bursts open. I only hope that the fruit will not be cracking too. Ron R, how is your 636 doing?
Jernej

6/25/2004 11:39:11 AM