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Nj

Should I build myself some cold frames? My "safe date" for tender annuals, is May 10, and that is when I will be putting the plants out, so I will be pretty safe from frost. Should I or shouldn't I? I don't want to spend the money to make them if I really don't need them. I would rather have the money go into good soil.

Thanks,
John

2/27/2004 10:23:17 PM

Brillion Wisconsin

Better safe than sorry. You should have some type of protection ready for your seedling. Coldframe, hoop house or a cardboard box with some clear plastic. Providing a warm green house type atmosphere should be a top priority. Dean o

2/28/2004 5:35:37 AM

[email protected]

Even if we start after the last frost it can still get too cool for comfort. Though wind & critters are also good reasons to offer early protection.

My issue with this has been those odd days when the forecast calls for wind & clouds, then I find myself 30+ miles away when the sun comes out & the temperature in the cloches soars to over 100*F. So if you do cloche, don't forget to provide some vents on warms days.

Steve

2/28/2004 8:19:56 AM

Bemidji, MN

Hothouses work great for generating heat,but advantage #2 is that they help block wind from the tender young plants. This is a major factor to consider also. As far as Money concerns,most hothouses can be made from 2x2's and plastic for under $10.Steve

2/28/2004 9:13:12 AM

Norton, MA

I'd go for it but BE CAREFUL. I had a female open last year and I pollinated it and went off for the day. I didn't want any bees getting to it so I put my cloche over it. BAD IDEA, it got to 90+ outside that day and inside the cloche all I know is it was hot enough to boil the fruit and leaves and vine in their own juices. Alex.

2/28/2004 9:26:43 AM

Nj

What size, and shape should I make them? Would like a 4'x4'x3' made like a box made from PVC, and plastic drop cloth work?

Thanks! John

2/28/2004 9:54:04 AM

Bemidji, MN

4'x4'x3' would work.Make sure you have venting built in it to keep temps down. I like a basic box shape myself. Slant the roof somewhat to help water runoff. I use 2'x2's myself. Makes it easy to staple platsic to it.Steve

2/28/2004 10:05:58 AM

In the shade - PDX, OR

check Doc's diary for a "box type" of frame.

I think Kilr has an different example in the "how to" section.

2/28/2004 12:32:24 PM

Roanoke Il

Everyone knows or should know that wind protection and frost protection is important. But one other aspect that one should consider and look at is plant size. What I mean by that is you want to get your plant to the size of between 12-17 feet main vine length by july 1-8th to set a pumpkin between those dates. So may be a bigger cold fram something in the order of 8x6 should be considered maybe even bigger.. even if you don't get frost a week or two of 50-60 for highs and mid 30's may set your pumpkins behind so pollination may not occur untill early aug, this what I've found that hurts alot of newer growers and may be the reason for pumpkins only growing into the mid 400 lb range instead of 7-800 lb fruits.by having a bigger cold frame or small green house sort to speak may help. but if you live in a warmer climate you may only need a smaller cold fram. one way to tell is by your average high temp for late may and early june if your average high is over 78 i would think you would be safe with a smaller one. Hope this helps mark.

2/28/2004 4:50:13 PM

Rhode Island

Here in the northeast last season we had more rain than noah
The cold frames [first time year whew!!] kept the plants from drowning pete

2/28/2004 7:17:51 PM

Garden State Pumpkins

I concur with Mark...Had half my plants covered and half uncovered...When shooting for that first week of July as a set date only the ones that were covered had a chance at it. Also covering the mounds two weeks before setting plants out will help get the soil temperatures up...You can only do what is reasonable so if soil is what your after this year next year go for covers..I also buy the needed items for the pumpkins as I could afford it..this year sand will do next year look into MATs of mill fabric to stop the mice and keep the pumpkin dry...good luck grow em big! Chuck

2/29/2004 10:05:29 AM

I'm with Gordon... GO UTES!

Coldframes don't protect against freezing (unless you also
cover with a blanket or add heat). And that is not their
purpose. What you want is to turn your 45-60 degree days
into 80-90 degree days. This really gets the plants rockin'.
It also trumps the 50mph winds I deal with all spring.

Last year my weather was so bad that the only viable plants
I had were the ones that were in 12-foot hoophouses. Your
milage (climate) may be different.

Regards, Cliff

3/1/2004 5:12:26 PM

[email protected]

I agree with Cliff re hard freezes & cold frames. We hung 2 shop lights in ours last year & turned them on for cold nights. It never did get cold enough last spring for the blankets, but they were ready & will be again this year.

3/1/2004 8:38:32 PM