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Nova Scotia

I am wondering how many on here still dig and prepare pits for their pumpkin plants. I have in the past, and have been pleased with the results but it appears the trend by many heavy hitters is moving away from the "pits". I am just curious to peoples opinons and input on this topic. Do tap roots growing horizontal produce better than vertical roots into a rich mixure?

3/17/2003 5:56:43 PM

Montoursville, PA

Why not consider the best of both worlds. Load up looking for upwards of 20% humus. That is a lot of horse crap, leaves and other composted elements. Go for it. The roots will find the mother load as well as the rest throughout the patch.

3/17/2003 6:04:02 PM

[email protected]

Over the years, the main portion of our pumpkin patch (that is, the area that supports the main planting, has developed into a hump of sorts. Mostly the result of an abundance of amendments. But if all I ever did was till & amend that hum, my fear is the "pit area" would eventually become a pond. So now that we're growingg AG's, a tremendous amount of additional material (horse & cow manure, compost, & leaves) have been trucked into the sorrounding area. This has sauced a leveling of sorts. Not level. Just not as severely mounded. Which is good I guess because while the ice has just disappeared, the patch is allready free of frozen soil while the sorrounding lawn area. other flatter spots, & all low areas are still frozen.
A pit could retain water just like the lows & flats are here. A lot of this has to do with the underlying subsoil, Were it clay, water would have a hard time percolating. So if water were trapped for any period of time, root damaged would be expected, just as the frozen condition prevails in those areas right now. A sandier subsoil would probably be OK though.
Steve

3/17/2003 7:31:30 PM

Western Pa.

Tremor is correct. If you have heavy clay soil, as a lot of us do, picture your pit as a soggy bowl of Cheerios in milk. A mound will provide good drainage and will heat up a lot quicker than a pit.

3/17/2003 7:52:28 PM

Paradise Mountain, New York

My Funnel Pits, I dig a pit 4' X 4' and two feet deep. Then from the outsides corners to the center I dig to somewhere around 3' deep. Another words, from the sides to the center of the pit, it tapers to the center. Then In the center of the pit, I dig a hole about 12 inches wide and two feet deep. This way,any water will drain deep into the bottom of the pit. I had great luck in doing this last year. The root system under the main was unreal. The roots where very big around and deep into the pit. I'll be doing the same this year. If any grower knows some old timers, It's just like making a dry well. Once you get below the hard pan the soild will drain. All you have to do is to make your pit look like a regular funnel.

3/17/2003 8:04:03 PM

Paradise Mountain, New York

I forgot to say that when i'm done, I mound the top of the pit so the soil is about 8-10 inches higher then the rest of my patch

3/17/2003 8:06:14 PM

Paradise Mountain, New York

I forgot the most important thing. The hole at the bottom of the pit that is 12 inches wide and two feet deep. I fill this with #2 stone

3/17/2003 8:08:39 PM

[email protected]

Wow. Brat's done a lot of work & presumably got below the area where an impervious layer could cause trouble. Pretty cool. A lot of work, but very cool.
The stone is creating an open conduit to drain the water that the pitched mound doesn't shed. But still ample room for a good tap root. Sweet.
I like this idea since about 2 feet below grade, I hit dead sand. Brat's process could have save me a lot of grief for the old ruptured disc!

Steve

3/17/2003 8:33:30 PM

Montoursville, PA

Jake my opinion is if it 'aint broke don't fix it. You clearly said you had used the pit in prior years and were pleased. I say simply contiue what you know is fine and add more humus and or manures to the total patch. Test your soil and adjust for PH of 7.0 slightly more or less.

If you hit 10% 20% humis all other major needs will not be all that far off in your patch. Follow your good judgement on changes and additives in moderation to tune it up for your best growth.

By following my own advise the State Univeristy Soil Tests calls for a very modest addition of N and a tiny bit more adjustment to slightly higher PH. We made those adjusts and will test again this spring for further tweaking if needed.

We will continue to attempt to improve percentage of humus. A few percentage points per year is nice gain to a better condition.

3/17/2003 9:53:55 PM

Sydney, Australia

I dug a huge pit in the patch where I grew the 845 Bobier which grew the 950.4 Boyton. It was 2 foot deep into the hard clay. Circular with a 7 foot diameter. Then add on my raised beds and a 6 inch planting mound I had a depth of about 3 foot. Backfilled with potting mix, cow manure, soil, blood & bone and ash. Well over a yard of soil at the planting site alone! To avoid drowning the plant I had drain pipes at the base and dug a trench about 50 foot long which connected to my household stormwater system, with enough fall for the water to run. This trench was backfilled with gravel. I grew a good pumpkin with the pit...... will use it again. A lot of hard work setting it up......guess it helped.......Ben

3/18/2003 12:47:08 AM

Paradise Mountain, New York

WOW Boily, that must of been a lot of hard work. But I guess what ever works for you. I guess we all have different ways of trying something out. What might work for one guy, won't be liked by another, or doesn't work for someone else. I beleive it's better to try something then to just sit and wonder if it will or won't work.

3/18/2003 5:20:03 AM

Cologne / Germany

I used a pit last year but I made a mistake - the difference between the quality and consistance of the soil in- and outside was too big. The development of the plant in later stages was not satisfying. This year I will try to have best and equal soil conditions from the stump area up to the end of the main vine. That means better care for the whole patch and more work, but I guess that´s better than to focus on the stump area.

3/18/2003 6:32:08 AM

Nova Scotia

I appreciate all the valuable input. I will most likely continue with my pits, and continue to improve the organic matter and overall soil of all my space. I am lucky compared to many of you as I have a sandy subsoil and drainage in not a problem. Thanks again.

3/18/2003 5:41:28 PM

Montoursville, PA

The disadvantage of the pit system is that one is tempted to keep the same nursery area year to year. Crop rotation must be practiced for the best growing conditions. Therefor the nusery area or pit must be moved from year to year.

It is best if rotation could be three years but small patches seldom have that luxury. Crop on same crop will in most instances upset the balance of any patch. Remaining fallow every third year to rebuild is another plan.

Some rebuilding programs are suggested as three to four years on no same cropping. The only alternative to a fungus loaded patch is fumigation. Few fumigation programs are designed to be anything but partial clean ups. They are not an absolute correction.

Cover crops are most important in support of good healthy patch maintenance. Yearly replacement in fact gains in the area of humis and manures is equally important.

Natural additives like BioBoost and SoilGuard by Gardens Alive may in fact be very strong ballanced maintenance and support for what we do to our patches.

Since these two products were already in my previous gardening programs I shall continue to use them. I see no harm and possibly a lot of gain for those who would use them or equal products. Note that continued use improves all that they do for your natural support to existing good organic factors in your soil.

The amazing thing about products of this nature is the very low cost to include them in your total program per plant. On the two I mentioned $15.00 X 2 = $30.00 for a ten year supply for two plants. Talking a couple of bucks a year.

3/22/2003 9:08:28 AM