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General Discussion
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Subject: patch sizes for pumpkins over 1500
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From
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Location
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Message
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Date Posted
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| vancouver |
Vancouver Washington
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Hey all, I have 1500 square feet to work with for next year. I could plant 2 or three pumpkins. The odds are certainly better with three, but the trend seems to be bigger patches again. I would love to hear some experienced opinions on the patch sizes for a pumpkin over 1500. I grew a 1220 in about 350sq feet last year, but still i wonder if 500sq feet is adequate for a run at a really huge one
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11/3/2007 11:18:35 PM
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| Kevin Snyder (TEAM HAMMER) |
[email protected]
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The WR 1689 was grown in 750 sq ft. The 1524 Starr was grown in 400 sq ft. The 1524.5 Liggett was grown in 430 sq ft. Most of the 1500+ lbers I've seen a plant size for are around 700-750 sq ft. But the two 1524's prove you don't need a huge plant to grow a 1500lb fruit.
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11/4/2007 1:37:08 AM
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| Whidbey |
Whidbey Island
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Remember, a large part of the issue is how much of the vine is "before" the fruit. The general theory believed by most is that the vine beyond the fruit is far less helpful to fruit growth than is the vine before the fruit. Given this, a more interesting question would be, "How many square feet was the area before the fruit and how many beyond?" One could then plan on locating the transplant in an area of the patch that would allow for maximum secondary growth before the fruit and not worry as much about the vine beyond the fruit.
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11/4/2007 1:07:45 PM
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| TruckTech1471 |
South Bloomfield, Ohio
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Interesting point. Both Doctor Liggett and Circleville second-place finisher Ken Speakman both terminated the main at the pumpkin....something I intend to do next season. The whole key then is to keep that plant healthy through the month of September.
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11/4/2007 6:23:54 PM
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| watermelonman (Rob) |
Frankfort Oh
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I`m with pumpkinman ,,Ihave experienced with the plant ,,,going pass the fruite,,but didn`t see a whole deal of growth ,,from it ,,I, STILL BELEAVE MYSELF ,,,,THAT THE PUMPKIN GETS IT`S MAIN GAIN ,,,from everthing ,,before the fruite,,,,and for, the past few years, have cut, anything going past the fruite ,,,and the plant is much more manageable,,,,in my opinion ,,,I beleave,,when you let the plant go pass the fruite ,,your taking, energy,,,away, from the pumpkin ,,,which could be going into it,,,but, everybody,,has the own nitch ,,about that ,, good luck,,Rob
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11/4/2007 8:39:29 PM
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| CliffWarren |
Pocatello ([email protected])
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For those who terminate the vine at the fruit, how long of a main vine do you try to get before terminating?
One of my big problems is I'm rarely even 10 feet out by the first week of July, due to the cold. (Maybe I can remedy that next year...)
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11/5/2007 5:51:30 PM
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| Doug14 |
Minnesota([email protected])
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If the plant behind the pumpkin is the main feeder of the pumpkin, I've wondered why someone doesn't grow and early plant(like for a state fair), set the pumpkin at 25-30' on the main, and have a huge plant to feed the pumpkin for an Oct. weighoff? Or would the early secondary leaves be pretty much worn out by that time?
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11/5/2007 5:58:48 PM
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| CliffWarren |
Pocatello ([email protected])
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Well, you're from Minnesota... ;-) I'd be thrilled to get to 15 feet and have a fruit set before July 10.
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11/5/2007 6:13:05 PM
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| Doug14 |
Minnesota([email protected])
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Cliff, I'm not saying I could get a plant that large by pollination time(unless I invested a lot of money and work). But growers in some regions could, with less trouble. Maybe in your case, you'd have to let your secondaries grow longer(terminating them later), or rely on more plant behind the pumpkin. Keep in mind, some big pumpkins have been grown on 400 or less sq. ft. You may have to experiment to see what works best.
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11/5/2007 6:41:48 PM
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| huffspumpkins |
canal winchester ohio
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Cliff, I visit Bob Liggett's patch a few times over the course of the growing season each year & while he does terminate at the pumpkin, the plant isn't done growing at pollination time. He trains his secondaries in a pattern that goes straight out like everyone else's "but" he then curves them slightly & then foward like the main. The secondaries will grow a little more foward than the main & though I have never measured them it appears that the first few secondaries could be a long as 20' & the last couple of secondaries before the fruit are around 10'. So if he post on the AGGC that his plants were 500 sq ft, that would be 500 sq ft of plant before the pumpkin. I'm going into a new spot this upcoming season & I'm going to give this pattern a try.
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11/6/2007 2:50:19 PM
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| Doug14 |
Minnesota([email protected])
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Interesting huffs(Paul?), I let my first few secondaries on my largest pumpkin(1041 lbs.) grow about 11', then the rest before the fruit, I let grow longer, turning them eventually in the same direction as the main. It seemed to do well for me, as I broke my personal best by over 300 lbs. Mr. Liggett seemed to let his first secondaries grow longer, instead of the later ones(opposite of what I did). Of course he grew larger pumpkins than myself. I'm wondering if it's better to have the first few secondaries be longer, or longer one's just before the fruit be longer? It seems Steve Z. had a pattern similar to the latter, when he grew his 1302.
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11/6/2007 4:54:37 PM
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| Madman Marc! |
Colo Springs CO
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I've found over the years most of the main rooting goes on before the fruit...after the fruit the roots only get larger if the plant isn't rooted very well to begin with. I would think the vines closest to the pumpkin have the most influence on the fruit. That may not be the case though, as some of the largest roots grow on the first two back side vines. Maybe pruning the back vines sooner would encourage the other vines to root more. Something I do intend to try in '08... hope the weather cooperates...lol!
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11/6/2007 6:13:12 PM
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| Total Posts: 12 |
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