From

Location

Message

Date Posted

Phoenix, AZ

Now I know you want to say ALL fruit growth is critical. However, given the choice based on past experience, do the big pumpkins come from guaranteed early growth or from sustained growth into late season...say after day 70?

4/10/2007 12:53:33 PM

Jericho Vermont

Ben
I look at pumpkin growth in a way like trying to surf. It takes knowledge patience and luck to hit the incoming wave(growth) at its optimal. Some pumpkins seem to do this and others for some reason just don't ever start to their hoped for potential. May be because of plant size at pollination, or pollination problems or whatever.

During the growth cycle it is very much dependant on staying on the top of the wave with out losing the momentum. This can be lost with weather, soil issues, pests, genetics and grower error (fertilizers too much/too little) or water.

If these first factors are met correctly I believe you have the chance to ride the wave out all the way to the beach (weigh off). Many pumpkins are still growing at the the time of harvest although perhaps quite slowly.

So in a nut shell I feel it is the whole growth period that is ultimately responsible for early boosts or early declines.(you need to stay on the top of the wave)I am sure genetics plays a role in this as well but far over my head to try to figure that part out.
John

4/10/2007 1:20:43 PM

Lloydminster/AB

Sustained growth into late season, day 50 continuing to at least day 90 is what I hope for. I have a couple of greenhouses which work well when it is cool but if it gets warm out I have problems keeping the pumpkin cool enough. Every time that I have had it a little too warm I have had amazing early growth and then early maturity and the end of growth by day 60 while my outside fruits continue to grow. All my big ones put on almost as much weight after day 50 as before day 50. Unfortunately if it was a dud up to day 50 it stays a dud so its the combination of good early growth AND sustained late season growth that works for me.

4/10/2007 1:29:35 PM

Hudsonville, Michigan ([email protected])

I agree with the above. A LONG fruit growth cycle late into the season is necessary for the real big ones. But let's not forget that early pollination is key so that you are really putting on the pounds when the heat of summer is bearing down on you. A late set in which day 30 is in late August will not put on as many pounds per day as an early set that hits day 30 in early August.

Frank

4/10/2007 1:48:53 PM

Lloydminster/AB

John's surfing analogy is perfect! In My greenhouses I am still trying to get my timing right and that includes planting dates ,when to switch from heating to cooling and so on. In Phoenix keeping the fruit growing is going to be a challenge but if growing big pumpkins was easy none of us would be doing it!

4/10/2007 2:01:26 PM

Rhode Island

here is the formula we have used to success over the last few years
here on the east coast
target date for weigh off is early october

1. make sure you soil is a balanced as humanly possible
2. get your seedlings germinated and hardened off to go in the ground at first true leaf stage (may 2 - 5 depending on weather
3. planting area is covered with greenhouse, small heating cable in ground around plant, cover plant at night with styrofoam cooler.
4. water by hand using a soil drench of soil soup and sea crop as needed.
5. keep tempature inside greenhouse around 80 to 85 degrees when at all possible during the day
6. trim off back main or train as a side vine as soon as it appears
7. build soil up under new main until such time as its on the ground and ready to run ( bury at root taps )
8. vine bury sides and main every other day to encourage vine growth, stake in place as well.
9. continue to water with sea crop and add micro nutrients to the trench as you vine bury
10.terminate side vines at 12 ft minimum
11.have a minimum of 12 sets of sides before the peak pollination time of july 1 to july 4.
12.have the first two or three sets of sides big enough to terminate once pollination period begins.
13.after boarer season has passed uncover mains and a couple feet of each side off the main. ( so you can continually inspect for any possible problems

most of the time if you can meet the timelines as mentioned above then whatever fruit you choose to go with stands a chance for a great growth start.

the more sides before the fruit you get to 12 ft and terminate the faster the fruit will start to grow.

unless you have something very drastic happen in your soil then there should be no let up in growth.

example ---- pollination 7-4-, a minimum of 400 to 500 pounds by 8-4, another minimum of 500 to 600 in august --- daily gains will start to drop by third week in august, then around 150 to 175 lbs in september.

pap

4/10/2007 5:49:43 PM

Phoenix, AZ

Everyone,

This is good stuff and I really appreciate the input...plus makes me think a couple different things I need to do next year.

John, the momentum in my pumpkin is building and the daily weights are increasing slowly. I really like the concept of keeping that momentum.

Pap, your 4-500 lb is what I am shooting for at the end of the growth. Wow, that is a league above me. Next year I can "try" for that.

Also, I never thought of secondaries and worrying about termination before setting a fruit but it makes sense.

4/10/2007 11:50:35 PM

maine USA

Pap, great info, I am just not sure what you are saying with number 6

6.trim off back main or train as a side vine as soon as it appears

thanks KathyT

4/11/2007 12:20:18 AM

San Diego

Ben,

You will find out guys like us who grow way south have a much shorter cycle for pumpkin growth. Our days are much shorter, sun is higher and more intense, and temps much higher usually. I have found out that if you get fruit growth over 75 days, you are running on fumes. Maybe a lb a day for another couple days.

Day 20 to day 55 are pretty much the days where you need to keep the weight gains steady. It's the time us southern growers have to really pack it on. Slow and steady doesn't work like the 90 to 100 growth days up north. Some pumpkins peak and go down in weight gains fast, nothing can be done at times if it is genetic. Others hang onto the gains over a much longer period, that is when you are in the ballgame. Keep your plant healthy and hope your fruit can sustain the weight gains. Then you have the arizona recod my friend;)

4/11/2007 12:39:40 AM

Rhode Island

KATHY

A PUMPKIN PLANT USUALLY THROWS OF TWO MAINS
ONE RUNS OPPOSITE OF THE OTHER AND IF ALLOWED TO GROW WOULD GIVE YOU A FRONT AND BACK MAIN
THE FIRST VINE TO DROP OPPOSITE THE FIRST TRUE LEAF IS YOUR MAIN. DIRECTLY ON OPPOSITE SIDE OF PLANT A SECOND "BACK MAIN" USUALLY DEVELOPS.
SOME VERY GOOD GROWERS HAVE GROWN TWO PUMPKINS ON A PLANT BY SETTING ONE ON THE MAIN AND A SECOND PUMPKIN OFF THE BACK MAIN.
WE DONT LET A BACK PLANT DEVELOP, WE EITHER CULL THE BACK MAIN OR TRAIN IT AS A SIDE VINE. WE CONSENTRATE ON ONE PUMPKIN PER PLANT.
HOPE THIS HELPS

PAP

4/11/2007 9:32:04 AM

maine USA

Great explanation Pap, it does help very much. thanks KathyT

4/12/2007 12:17:23 AM