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REHOBOTH Mass.

I have a question.... I have a pile of oak, maple and pine shavings approximately two years old, thats been outside in the weather. I am looking to add it to my pumpkin patch to help airate and compost the soil. Am I hurting or helping the soil? Any opinions would be appreciated.

4/2/2007 7:31:16 PM

Massachusetts

It will rob the soil of nitrogen this is needed to brake down the shavings

4/2/2007 7:44:59 PM

Bristol,RI,USA.

On Top of robbing the soil of nitrogen it is very acidic. The only leafs I put in my patch are maple leafs. They brake down fast and ad organic matter to the soil .so to answer your? You are hurting your garden


Michael

4/2/2007 8:17:52 PM

before anyone can make a sound assessment we would need more info on your soil,,,,,

yes they can rob N,,yes they would be acidic,,,,

but without knowing what you have to start with,,,maybe these would be good things,,,

my point it that wood shavings generally get an undeserved "bad rap" here,,let us see a soil test or explaining what conditions you are trying to correct and we can make a better assessment as to your use of this material...

Dan B

4/2/2007 8:34:52 PM

[email protected]

If it still looks "woody" then add some garden soil & grass clippings over the summer. Spray it with some Symbex, Molasses, compost starter or similar bacterial inoculant. Turn it regularly over the summer. Add it to the patch next fall.

4/2/2007 8:54:48 PM

Waitakere New Zealand

i think tremor's advice is good. We use pine bark to grow crops in here in NZ it is aged and lime and nitrogen stablized before it is used. We do ocasionaly get nitrogen problems but with good growing they are fairly easy to spot and correct. Pine bark is also used as a clay breaker in heavy soils same deal got to be lime and nitrogen stablized.

4/3/2007 5:58:05 AM

Waquoit Mass

after two years oak leaves can still be uncomposted. id give it another year use tremors additives and send it for a soil test for ph d

4/3/2007 10:14:34 AM

Montoursville, PA

Once again we are faced with the fact that Symbex will do the job at a given higher expense. I have used it and note that it works fine. Craig got me into it my first spring when I had added to much of everything for the biology of my patch and the weather conditions were to cold to decompose without help.

Literally no expense except time for pile turning is involved to do the same job using the basics of manures, minerals (garden soil) plant life browns and greens plus a dollup of molasses to feed the critters. There is not much that will not break down in a season if the pile is turned and kept moist. This gives the worms a shot at soil improvement as they also work the pile and leave their valued deposits. They work the garden and patch too but usually at a slower pace.

4/8/2007 9:56:50 PM