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Ohio

Just wondering how many of you guys have fought a split at day 30 to 35 and it still made it till the end. I have two pumpkins that started to split at the stem end that is approx a inch deep and about a 1 1/2 inch wide.The split doesnt go through into the cavity on ether one yet,I checked using a straw. The 1446 Eaton(approx 325 Lbs.) is the deepest at about 2 inches,Im pretty sure this one will be done for soon but will try anything to keep it going till it quits growing. The 1097 Beachy (over 500 Lbs) is only a inch deep but the way that thing is growing in might not have that much time left ether, its growing fast. Both these pumpkins split on the same day. I have only used 20-20-20 twice all season and that was a real light application,the last time it was applied was about 2 1/2 weeks ago. Im thinking they split because of it being so dry and then I hit it with to much water. I have packed the splits with captans so far thats all i can think to do at this point.

Should I cut 1/4 inch of the stems to slow em down? Thanks for any help you can give.

Brooks

8/8/2005 5:16:50 AM

[email protected]

Fluctuating water & temperature help push splits. Moderate growth favors steady growth but we can't always control these factors as well as we'd like to.

We had two splits on 30 day+ fruit in 2004 - one blossom end (fast death) & one stem end - both failed to finish.

The stem end has a lot of meat in those shoulders. Pack with sulfur or Captan & keep it dry. Use a fan blowing 24/7 if you must.

I heard that John Lyons has been known to further open shoulder cracks with a knife so as to stop the tearing & facilitate controlled drying. Has anyone else heard of or tried this?

8/8/2005 5:36:46 AM

Hilpoltstein, Bavaria, Germany

Brooks, not all might be lost yet.

To me blossom end splits seem to be fatal almost all the time. Stem splits, however, don't have to be fatal.
To me it looks like there are two types of stem splits.

Splits of the first type start at the margin of the stem and go out into the flesh of the fruit. The only hollow area here is the split itself, i.e. the wedge-shaped hole created by the spilt in the flesh of the fruit.
These types of splits will usually get bigger and deeper as the fruit continues to grow and will eventually go through into the cavity.

The second type of stem splits, however, is somehow different. The split doesn't look like a real, severe split. It often is only a few mm long and wide and opposed to the first type these splits usually open up directly in the stem, in the area just before where the stem meets the flesh. These splits do not go into the flesh of the fruit. There seems to be a somewhat hollow area under the stem where the stem is attached to the fruit. The split only goes into this small air-filled cavity between the stem and the fruit but does not affect the flesh of the fruit itself and, of course, also not the seed cavity.
To me it looks like this type of splits is not fatal. The only important thing is to dry out the small cavity opened up by the split in order to prevent diseases from attacking the flesh.
Or should we try to get some powder or fluid into this small cavity to disinfect it first before drying it out?

Does anyone know what I am talking about and what I try to explain? Do you also know these two types of stem splits?
What do you splits look like, Brooks?

8/8/2005 8:17:48 AM

Utah

I agree with Martin. Many are not fatal.

you have mail ....

http://www.bigpumpkins.com/Diary/DiaryViewOne.asp?eid=29264

8/8/2005 9:25:47 AM

Montoursville, PA

I have yet to finish one without stem splits. When they appear I was coached to take on of two approaches. The most common would be to get a fungicide on the split immediately.
The more safe way, in my opinion, is to use AGRO-K Vigor Cal Phos as the treatment. I have had great success both ways. I continue to treat all minor damages with Vigor Cal Phos. Healing follows either treatment. My 2004 diary shows some mean stem splits teated with Captan.

8/8/2005 10:11:11 AM

Montoursville, PA

Up to my old tricks of incomplete thoughts above. I treat with Captan first and later the same day or the next follow with Vigor Cal Phos on the big ugly splits that show me fresh meat. Little happenings I use only Vigor Cal Phos.

8/8/2005 10:13:44 AM

Ohio

I have the kind of split that starts at the stem and ends up on the flesh of the pumpkin,Looks like its going to be curtains for them soon by the reading on this post.

If they dont last to much longer, how would you guys go about trying to keep it growing so the seeds will mature,the one Im worring abut is the 1446 Eaton at 30 days today,if the split ends up to go clear through to the cavity will it still grow for a couple days or does everything shut down once air hits the inside?

Tanner ,them are some great learning pictures, thanks alot for sending them.

Brooks

8/8/2005 2:56:24 PM

Ohio

Great News!! My 1097 split at the stem end aswell!,Im on my way to 1000 Lber I can see it now! 2 more pumpkins left to split and Im in like flint.

8/8/2005 9:47:35 PM

Puyallup, WA

I'm really going to be pissed if my 1097 splits!

8/9/2005 1:00:23 AM

Ohio

Stan,good luck with it,just be careful with it,you know like I do its a fast grower, any fertz you use on your other plants I would use half that on the 1097,Mine has just put 60 Lbs on in the last 2 days with the split. The only fertz I have used on it was 20-20-20 about 3 weeks ago. I have only used it twice on this plant all season,the rest of the time was fish and sea weed.



Brooks

8/9/2005 7:02:47 AM

Utah

Brooks ...
after looking at your pictures ...I think your stem split might be OK ... difficult to tell though.

take a look at this one ... http://www.bigpumpkins.com/Diary/DiaryViewOne.asp?eid=40644
OUCH !
That is what you don't what to see.

gordon

ps ... I don't know what you do with the long gourds ...
maybe you could carve a jack-o-lantern out of one?

8/9/2005 4:26:20 PM