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Grandfield Oklahoma

I want to share this aritcle with everyone it is very good

http://www.humintech.com/001/articles/article_humus_still_a_mystery.html

3/23/2005 6:10:02 PM

Puyallup, WA

Nice article! :>)

3/23/2005 9:01:52 PM

On top of Brush Mountain, Pa.

Nice article. Thanks.
Marv in Altoona, PA

3/23/2005 10:51:27 PM

Montoursville, PA

Picking out the jewels that are meaningfull to us average Joe's my mind turns to the possible addition of some clay to my sandy loam.

I am already using modest amounts, of humates, along with my aerobic tea as produced, by the Biti Bobolater. Paul Sachs, the author, of the above article invented or improved the art, of aerated tea, as produced, by his machine as well as, by other proven and tested machines. The site North Country Organics has lots of interesting products and philosophy, to read and tease your brain power.

It has been said that five gallons, of proven quality aerobic tea contains enough bactera, fungi and living critters up, to nematoads, to be the equivelant, of 40 tons, of compost.

3/24/2005 9:14:50 AM

NEPA [email protected] KB3QKV

Does humus lower the ph? If so then how much does it lower it? It must be long term that the ph changes?

3/26/2005 7:28:40 AM

Montoursville, PA

All formerly living matter that gets entered into the soil goes through a process, of decomposing, from complex solids to humus and next into humates. This is the short and simple statement. None, of this happens without the association, of plant roots working, in and with the biological process as supported, by a healthy plant.

All compost and or humus that is completely processed returns, to about 7.0 PH. Nothing happens quickly or can be made, to happen quickly without adding sulphur, to lower or products like lime, to raise the PH.

It appears that an opinion has been formed indicating that the range, of PH between 6.5 and 7.2, is what we presently call excellent, for pumpkins. However good results have been achieved above and below this range.

Personally I would not tinker with PH unless I found myself considerably outside, of the above range. Most likely getting a good humus percentage at or above 7% is another common practice where the big fruit are being grown. When you continually add manures, compost and the elements of compost good soil seems, to be the resulting action, no matter what the base soil makeup may have been when you started.

When does to much goodness become a problem is a question unanswered with any consistant discovery that could be considered, in the reports of others.

3/26/2005 2:43:34 PM

Utah

where are the figures ? I can't fine them ...it is just me ?

I would like to see them.

3/28/2005 9:22:52 AM

Montoursville, PA

Those like myself who lean into healthy patch development have strong feelings that the above average conditions mentioned are good as a target range of ballanced good working biologically ballanced soil.
The averages suggested comes from guys like Jerry Rose, Scott Armstrong, Larry and Gerry Checkon, Paul Huff, Craig Lembke, Dan Carlson and his partner, and others. These fellow growers whom I know and swap spit with depend largely upon soil development using the basics, of manures, composts, elements of compost supported, by foliar feeding of teas, programs like AGRO-K, liquid kelps or seaweed, fish and molasses. This is in addition to mineralization and PH adjustment. No two growers are exactly alike. No charts, of figures exist now or ever will because dealing with the biological ballance or contents does not come from a single act by any human being. All soils react favorably, to these basics.

The chemistry, of any individual component can be found, in many organic books as well as on the web sites relative to most questions. What makes it impossible, to pin point, is the simple fact that this years addition, of manures will, in some part be, in the soil package, for years not days. This is what enables stronger and better ballances as one works with the soil building. We are informed that 1% humus makes available aproximately ten pounds, of Nitrogen the year it is placed. Some, of that will still be working, for the betterment, of the total, years later.

Maybe ten years from now we may be able, to suggest with experience what might be considered good or possibly bad, for that matter, in relation, to building solid great and wonderful soil.

3/28/2005 12:12:21 PM