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Kansas City, MO

I'll take all the suggestions possible.

My patch is in Kansas so hot days. On the southern edge is several large trees that I really don't want to cut down but they do result in a lot of shade during the day. My last two summers, I've had disease problems(last year it wiped me out). I want to spray as little as possible but am open to all remedies.

One thing I'm considering is a heavy dose of manure early this Spring but then no fertilizing until after I have pumpkins set.

Greg

3/3/2005 3:33:09 PM

Waquoit Mass

identify your disease first then find a cure .

3/3/2005 3:52:33 PM

Pumpkintown, SC

Late day shade will help you if growing in the heat. The "diseases" you will most likely be dealing with the most will be one or more of the Mosaic viruses and a good dose of Powdery Mildew(especially with more shade). You may choose to experiment with only letting every other 2ndary grow out for better air circulation within your heavily shaded patch. Also, make sure any overhead watering is done early enough in the day so the leaves have plenty of time to dry off. Finally, my opinion only, growing in the heat + humidity and "spraying as little as possible" don't belong in the same thought <:^}>
PS. You will want to get that manure in your patch ASAP, ie. yesterday. BF

3/3/2005 4:52:45 PM

Garden State Pumpkins

I'm going with Dave here Greg...Diseases are nuts...many exhibit the same symptoms and until you know what your dealing with its impossible to know what to do...sunlight is only one possible problem..without hearing and seeing all your symptoms it's impossible to even point you to a directon to start looking.Look through all the old posts here using the search function and come up with what bests suit your problem and treat it now...if this year is still a problem get a fresh tissue sample to your nearest AG university..good luck and Grow Em Big! Chuck

3/3/2005 9:52:39 PM

KENTUCKY

these should be helpful links

http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/PhotoPages/PhotoGallery.htm#Cucurbit

http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/PhotoPages/Cucurbit/Foliar/FoliarPhotoList.htm

http://vegetablemdonline.ppath.cornell.edu/factsheets/Cucurbit_List.htm

http://www.aces.uiuc.edu/~ipm/fruits/cucurbit/cucurbit_mgtrec.html

hope this helps

Mike

3/3/2005 10:11:25 PM

C N Y

and/or, what exactly were your symptoms of your problem, if you do not find anything out from the advice thus far?
wilting? rotting? fruit rotting from the inside?
millions of holes in your leaves? etc. etc.
there's a chance it might not even be a disease per say, but an affliction brought on by insects, perhaps.
concerning your shade issue, it is possible to erect mirrors or other shiny material to reflect available sunlight into the shaded area, but i forgot who was the BP.com pioneer of that one---eric

3/5/2005 12:50:36 AM

[email protected]

Greg,

Other questions must be raised regarding the disease.

"I want to spray as little as possible but am open to all remedies."

Convention fungicides might "last" as long as 3 weeks. But since these buggers grow so fast, 7-10 days is the MOST elapsed time possible regardless of the treatment choice that is made. AGs literall out-grow the protective fungicide layers we apply to them. Imagine what a semi-inflated balloon would look like if we painted it, let the paint dry, then finished blowing it up. The paint would crack & flake all over the place.....same idea.

However this statement might also suggest a desire to use lower impact bio-rational solutions such as (for Powdery Mildew) Baking Soda + Oil, Neem Oil, Horticultural Soap, Molasses, Milk (not a joke), compost tea, etc. But these treatment options are going to need to be sprayed virtually daily for good control.


Help Greg....we need more info & this board moves fast. Your post will soon be buried! LOL

3/5/2005 8:45:26 AM

Azores,terceira Island

another good link to identify curcurbit disease

http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Publications/PM1049.pdf

Good luck
Ryan

3/5/2005 10:04:23 AM