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Owensboro, Ky.

New grower from Kentucky, wondering where I might find larger size peat pots...6" to 10"...any ideas?

1/20/2005 8:27:07 PM

Indiana

Dont do it. They really restrict the root system and after the season they are still there. Use somthing like a one gallon plastic pot or icecream bucket turned upside down with the bottom cut out.
http://bigpumpkins.com/Diary/DiaryViewOne.asp?eid=7736 they work much better.
Steve

1/20/2005 8:32:25 PM

Buffalo, MN ([email protected])

WSM, moondog is correct if you aren't careful with peat pots. There is several things you must do if you use them.
I take a box knife and cut the hick out of them by making x all over sides and bottom then put them in a plastic container. When planting you need to make sure NO part is exposed, it will act as a wick and dry out the plant. I always tear off the top couple of inches when planting.
The biggest I found are 5 inches unless doing a special order.
Billf

1/20/2005 9:11:28 PM

porterville, calif.

Ihave found them up to a 5gallon size at home depot. Also lowes has them. But using the icecream 1 gallon buckets works great. If you go to I believe Doggripes diary I think he put some pictures of how he used them. Greg C.

1/21/2005 12:37:55 AM

U can use a Becel margerin tub and poke multiple holes in the bottom. I also used pots from hanging flower pots, they were nice and big, and the seedlings grew very good, just its hard to get the seedling out of the pot when ready, have to be very careful.

1/21/2005 2:11:52 PM

Ontario, Canada

Has anyone tried coffie cans

1/21/2005 4:30:53 PM

[email protected]

Used 10" Sewer & Drain pipe last year cut down both sides & hinged back together. Even with 12" of seed starting media the roots made the bottom in 72 hours from leaf emergence.

1/21/2005 4:45:20 PM

Pocatello ([email protected])

Joel Holland has a nice demonstration of this in his latest
video. He just uses large nursery pots (if you've ever bought
trees and saved the pots...) What you do is cut them in half
down the sides, and then re-assemble with duct tape. When it's
time to plant, carefully remove the duct tape and then you
can usually get the root ball out without damage.

My only concern with this is that my method for keeping the
pots warm... may not work on such a large pot. But I'm going
to try it.

1/21/2005 5:00:13 PM

Ontario, Canada.

WSM, These guys are right on the money. Pumpkin roots grow extremely fast. Your little babies will be bound up in no time even in a 6" pot. With the cots just showing through the surface you will find the tap root can already be over 4"+ long.

This year I will try a new method for seed starting that not too many growers like. I will start the seed indoors and get it in the ground in heated 8' X 8' hoop houses as soon as the rad breaks out of the shell. I have tested numerous starting methods this past month and found that root growth rates are truely incredible.

I know the case can be made for using a larger size pot but I have found no matter how much care is taken during transplant time some damage will occur to your plants fine young roots. Setting them back only a few days, IMHO makes a huge difference in the end. They will recover but it is a stressful start that can and should be avoided.

1/22/2005 6:02:59 AM

Joliet, IL

i use 4" peat pots and carefully cut the bottoms off and
slice the sides when i see dirt pushing up, and transplant
them immediately into 12" tall x 6" wide cylinders.

the peat pots work nice for my germination methods with
8 peat pots fitting nicely in one black plastic garden
tray, and 2 trays over my 85 degree propagation mat.

but like others have said, the root system will be
confined if left in them even for one day after sprouting.
and root balling will occur if the bottoms are not removed
because the new roots are not strong enough intitially
to break through compressed peat, even if saturated.

the key for me is consistent heat for germination which
i can control nicely in the smaller peat pots and this is
why i still use them. when dirt pushes, up the heat is no
longer necessary and they are immediately transplanted
into my premade 12"x6" cylinder molds(used for testing
concrete and can be bought at any ready mix plant if you
talk to the owner or dispatcher). the molds have lids that
come with them that will act as the removable bottoms
come transplanting time into the patch, which is 4-5 days
after sprouting.

the sides are cut and the bottom removed, and the lids
are punched with drainage holes and duct taped to the mold and the sides are duct taped up. i then put 50% potting
soil and 50% garden soil in a wheelbarrow, mix thoroughly
and fill my newly made transplant containers and bring them
inside to acclimate to room teperature one week before
starting seeds.

1/23/2005 12:58:51 PM

Joliet, IL

the roots do not get disturbed at transplanting by
having the hole predug in the patch. just carefully remove
the bottom lid, (careful to not let soil and sprout slide
down) and then place the bottomless container directly
in the moistened predug flat based hole, making sure the
1st true leaf is opposite to direction of intent to grow.
then carefully pull the duct tape off the sides to remove
the plastic mold and fill in the sides of the hole.
one key is to make sure the soil in the molds get watered
a day before transplanting so the soil in the mold keeps
its shape at transplanting time and doesn't fall apart
before the soil can be filled in around it.

the system works nice for easily acclimating the plants
to natural sun by moving the deep containers in and out
of sunlight before final transplanting. eventhough the
the molds are 12" long, i wouldn't wait more than 5 days
after sprouting before transplanting them in final spot.

1/23/2005 12:59:25 PM

Pocatello ([email protected])

Hey Kahuna, when you start seeds indoors and move them out
as soon as the radicle breaks out, are you just doing this
in paper towels? Or how are you doing this?

Sounds interesting. But I would need to practice before
"going live" with it. Thanks.

1/24/2005 11:23:36 AM