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Wichita, KS

In an effort to figure out how to keep oxygen in the root zone in my soil (which has a high clay content: sandy clay loam, last time I did the test), I have been pondering different possibilities.

For those of you that know, what kinds of effect does Potassium nitrate (K2SO4)have on soil PH, and when it is added to your soil, will the oxygen release slowly enough to be of any benefit to microbial activity, or anything else for that matter?

The threads that have been making me think about this stuff have been the ones concerning senesence (aging of plant material), suberization of roots ("corking" or "callousing" of root tissues), early maturing of plant tissue, and Ethylene (H2C=CH2). In my observation, the common denominator of senesense and suberization is the lack of Oxygen... at least that is what it is in the root zone. So, raising the oxygen level in the root zone is the objective, especially for my dense soil...

12/14/2004 2:14:31 PM

[email protected]

Potassium Nitrate is KNO3
Potassium Sulfate is K2SO4

Which one?

12/14/2004 2:46:17 PM

Menomonie, WI ([email protected])

I was thinking the same thing Steve...lol

12/14/2004 3:34:02 PM

Wichita, KS

I said nitrate but I meant sulfate. I really need to do a better job of proof reading before I post.

I guess the question could apply to both. With my soil, I am primarily concerned with getting as much oxygen near the roots as possible. I can till in organic matter until I am blue in the face (which might be possible), and the high clay/sand content will still hold me back. In the 100*+ heat, it turns into cement. Therefore, I am interested in how to keep usable oxygen under the "pavement" by any means necessary.

In reality it isn't as bad as pavement, but trying to set a fence post with a manual post hole digger in August will take a year off your life.

12/14/2004 11:16:41 PM

Menomonie, WI ([email protected])

If you want oxygen I would go with An Agricultural grade of Hydrogen Peroxide. Also if you have that much heat maybe some sort of mulch.

12/15/2004 9:08:06 AM

Garden State Pumpkins

I'd go with getting the soil better...keep digging and adding till your blue in the face and then doulbe it!! Grow em Big!Chuck

12/15/2004 9:35:39 AM

Montoursville, PA

Ultimately the additiion of manures turned to humus and use of a cover crop will, in time, be the answer. Without any effort going this direction will attract the best diggers and oxygen pipeline makers known to exist...the lowly earthworm and the openings in looser soil left by rotting cover crop roots.

While performing this service the earthworm eats a bit of your humus, a few of your bacteria and perhaps a few mineral grains. He leaves the casts which are the highest known highest quality natural fertilizer known to mankind. He or it leaves the tunnels through which nutrients, air and water freely flow.

The most dangerous harm to this natural biological package in your soil is salts from synthetic ammendments, insecticides and fungicides. Quite simple then the object is to reduce the causes of poison salts build up and increase the humus content with manures, compost and a cover crop.

Within reason there seems to be no danger increasing humus to numbers approaching twenty percent. Gains or losses in soil quality are slow but sure if the causes are reduced or even in some areas removed completely.

12/15/2004 9:46:07 AM

Montoursville, PA

I missed a line from the above....The application of raw manures without time for them to be converted to humus, in your soil, will increase salts and other imballances just like the synthetics indicated, to be removed or greatly reduced.

12/15/2004 9:56:01 AM

[email protected]

Agreed that manures & other aged composts increase soil aeration. Other mechanically introduced soil amendments can be used to hold soils open too. But aggregate type amenments don't add valuble humic acid.

Check your mail.

12/15/2004 10:28:37 AM

add organic matter. it has big particle sizes which will make big pore spaces in the soil that have lots of room for O2. water will be held in the particles and you will also have room in the big pore sizes for excess water to drain out. OM=good!
(i'm learning too much in my Horticulture class... next semester I take SOIL 210, so you guys better watch out!)

12/15/2004 10:51:58 AM

[email protected]

Learn to drink lots of coffee in that class Brigitte.

12/15/2004 11:26:22 AM

Puyallup, WA

Steve...why tell her that? She will then have to make an excessive number of potty breaks! :>)

12/15/2004 11:46:32 AM

Wichita, KS

Thanks for the email, Steve! That's good stuff.

Well, the patch was "born" in May of this year, so its only about 7 months old. I have dumped untold volumes of manure in it back in May, and so far I have come across 1 earthworm, and I think I killed it. Maybe I should add nightcrawlers. I have a cover crop going right now, so that should help too, and I have more manure composting (untold volumes, once again, maybe 30 yards). I'm looking for an additional edge, without killing worms, because I don't want to do another year under the 200# mark. I am convinced that the reason my fruits are maturing at about 170# is because of the no-oxygen soil. After reading these posts, I am concerned that worm activity will be subdued by the presence of aggregate ammendments. If I plant a bunch of worms in the patch, are we certain that Potassium sulfate or nitrate will be a worm burner?

I have proof read this post. lets see what I missed once I submit the post! :0)

12/15/2004 12:15:39 PM

[email protected]

Worms will come.

12/15/2004 1:29:51 PM

Cologne / Germany

After frost buy worms and add them to the patch. They will help you to get the most out of your manure.
That´s the way how the worm farms have horse manure turned into worm compost which is a pretty expensive product if you buy it.

12/15/2004 1:38:35 PM

Oz

there was a guy on the tv that is bottling worm tea.

12/16/2004 10:16:45 AM

Atlanta, Georgia

I'll drink anything...LMAO!
Send my that guy's name with the worm tea and maybe send some to Brigitte instead of the coffee...LOL

12/19/2004 5:51:42 AM

Ontario, Canada.

Mr. Sprout, the original question was about potassium sulfate. High potassium levels help to regulate the plants transpiration. I believe this is caused by the roots reaction to it's salt like content. It may have some use during cool weather periods to reduce a growth spurt at the onset of warmer air. Could it control a splitter? I don't know. More research is needed. However appling it may cause more harm then good as root damage may occur. Follow the link below.

http://www.diamondkgypsum.com/sop.htm

12/19/2004 8:16:53 AM

Ontario, Canada.

What is the Organic matter content of your soil. The Micro environment of your soil will perform much better as Doc details above with more naturals. Strive to load your soil towards the 20% OM level and the rest will take care of itself. If you are having trouble building organic content don't forget that the addition of perlite, vermiculite, peat moss or Profile can speed your CEC gains. This brings oxygen, water and nutient holding capacity up to 1000 pound levels too.

12/19/2004 8:30:17 AM

Wichita, KS

Excellent! Thanks for the advice. My OM level is between 2-3% after adding 30 yards of manure and tilling to 8". The local nursery was impressed that my OM was so high! LOL

I am thinking about doing Profile as I am not patient enough to 30 yards of manure per year for the next 5-8 years. Thank you for all the help, guys! :)

12/27/2004 10:48:02 PM