Soil Preparation and Analysis
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Subject: Horse Manure with Pine Shavings?
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From
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Location
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Message
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Date Posted
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Big O |
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Just wondering if you think the Pine shaving's would be a problem if I add this manure to my patch?
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11/13/2006 1:58:55 PM
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Tremor |
Ctpumpkin@optonline.net
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Depends how may shavings & their age. A little isn't a problem. Ideally you'd compost this with some grass clipping (amount determined by the % shavings) but this time of year you'd probably be OK.
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11/13/2006 3:13:00 PM
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Petman |
Danville, CA (petman2@yahoo.com)
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I have the very same issue. Several of the places I can get more has shavings mixed in at fairly high concentrations. I try to get the older stuff but since it is in one "bin" the old is way at the back and depending on the tractor operator.... Also I am spraying molasses. Anything else that should be done?
How much is okay if I put in now. Can I still put in 4 inches? Would probably be putting the pumpkins in the ground in early May. Not trying to hijack but continue discussion. Don't want the ground too hot!
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11/14/2006 1:10:43 AM
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RogNC |
Mocksville, NC
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If the pine shavings, and Manure doesnt lower your PH. Your OK, add some Extra nitrogen to the patch, also the blackstrap molasses,LIKE PETMAN SAID that will kick start the good bacteria, this will help break down the woody products in your OM. Make sure its done in the fall though let it overwinter. If you add compost even better grab a hadfull of compost if it smells sweet the bacteria you need is thriveing Great luck, and have fun.
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11/14/2006 7:01:35 AM
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Tremor |
Ctpumpkin@optonline.net
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The sawdust or shavings are "browns" or a carbon source. Being fresher wood, they also contain lignin which just makes the material resist decay a little longer than....let's say a Maple Leaf...which is also a "brown" but contains much less lignin.
Like Eric says, Nitrogen is used by the bacteria that will be needed to consume the shavings (or sawdust or Oak leaves, etc). Hence adding a bacterial cocktail or good compost (the workers) & some molasses (their early food source) will kick the breakdown up a notch. Does this help the Nitrogen issue?....
Not really.
If you can find some fresh grass clippings this time of year then you have some "greens". Commercial composting operators often use Urea (to replace missing greens) to fuel the fire when the C:N ratio gets out of whack this time of year since fresh grass is hard to come by. I don't recommend that hobbyists try this. Most never get the rate correct & end up using too much &/or fail to blend it correctly. Heck, I've seen the pros screw this up even when they own the right equipment to measure the urea & turn the windrows. Urea is just too strong & salty to chance using it straight up. The best Northeast winter composters dissolve Urea in water & spray it onto the browns with molasses as the material is conveyed to the windrows. NOT recommended for the hobbyist!
Don't forget restaurant & other kitchen wastes which might yield some "greens" this time of year. They won't have much, but lettuce, cabbage & other leaf crops can work.
IF the grower can layer their high-wood manure into a pile correctly then it might be fun to do some winter composting to see how this works.
1" of sawdust manure Spray a little Molasses A dusting of finished healthy compost Layer of green food waste or Blood Meal (for Nitrogen)
Keep making these thin layers & also turn them with a fork to thoroughly mix the ingredients as you build.
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11/14/2006 7:54:01 AM
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Tremor |
Ctpumpkin@optonline.net
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stupid 200 word maximum!
Cover the pile with a tarp & monitor the center for temperature & moisture. As it cools off you'll need to uncover & turn it every 2-3 weeks to keep the fire burning. There are garden compost thermometers but experienced growers us their nose, hands & eyes to monitor the pile.
If winter composting doesn't appeal, I would follow Rogers lead. Spread the material & spray it with molasses. The worst thing that could happen is a slight Nitrogen draft in the spring. A MILD soluble Nitrogen fertilizer in May would straighten this right out.
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11/14/2006 7:58:21 AM
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RogNC |
Mocksville, NC
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I should have said i used a organic nitrogen derived from manure 16-0-0 in liquid form sorry , and this was spread out over the untire patch, then over the winter the worms did the rest leaving me with 6inc of coal black well airated soil, as far as the nitrogen most was leached out, but thats why planted a cover crop for green manure worm population was massive 14% wood shavings was part of my total OM. i did not make a compost pile, sorry about that.
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11/14/2006 5:47:58 PM
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Total Posts: 7 |
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