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Owensboro, Ky.

In regards to previous post..."Tell me!!!"
1) What is "H" in the Base Saturation %'s?
2) Last year pH was 5.6 and although I added some lime and a lot of compost that was analyzed at 7.6 pH...I am thinking that my pH will prbly come down once leaves are finished breaking down??? True or no?
3) According to bar graphs in sample results...P, K, Mag, Cal, Boron, Zinc, and Iron are either in the Very High category, or right off the chart...need for concerns, and if so, what do I do about it.
4) Even with massive additions of compost last spring and 2.5K# of maple leaves in the fall, the OM # seems low...I am assuming this is due to the fact that most of the goodies that I have added still are in the top 2 to 3 inches of the patch.
5) What would you add to this patch, and in what quantities per 1K sq. ft.? Thanks in advance for the abundance of individual, intelligent responses??? :-) Peace, Wayne

2/13/2006 7:02:05 PM

Piqua,Ohio

H=Hydrogen Ions usually asscociated with calcium or lack of will also give some sort of measure how much lime is needed to correct ph I think. would have to get out the old soil science book. don't know where your ph might end up depends on how much lime was added. it will adjust some when things settle could be concern if your micros get too high one would really need to see a recent test to make a good rec of what to add. maybe Tremor has some thoughts. your OG probally has not broken down enough or is not mixed well enough to show on your test yet.

2/13/2006 8:15:11 PM

Piqua,Ohio

base saturation is outta whack 2.2 k% should be 3 to 5 mg% I think 25 or so cal looks fine and 0 on H if everything is in balance now the question is how to fix it? I'll have to look in the books and see LOL unless someone gets to it for I do. I am thinkin add k and mg but need to look. and those readings being in #/ac are not that high for what you are doing but good readings

2/13/2006 8:26:08 PM

Owensboro, Ky.

First soil analysis on patch done on 10/04 pH 5.6....added approx. 24 cu yds to 2400 sq. ft. of compost that tested at 7.6 pH...also added 100# of pellitized lime. Recommendation was 137# per 1K sq. ft. I knew of the high pH of the compost so I went way light with the lime. Lime was broadcast and not tilled in till spring of '05. Peace, Wayne

2/13/2006 8:29:49 PM

Owensboro, Ky.

Example of optimum Base Saturation %'s? Thanks for the help. Peace, Wayne

2/13/2006 8:34:18 PM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

1.) H = Hydrogen
2.) Yes
3.) P that high kills mycorrhyzae
4.) Organic *material* taks a while to decay into organic *matter*.
5.) Nothing. Take it easy & let nature catch up.

2/14/2006 5:47:49 AM

Owensboro, Ky.

I just found an Optimum Base Saturation pie chart in the diaries section. My numbers fall into the optimum range. Peace, Wayne

2/14/2006 7:12:59 AM

Midwest

I have a comment/question though on #5. And, in the context of Tremor's response, 'Take is easy and let nature catch up.' Your organic material is on top of your patch. I assume you will lightly till it in since you don't want organics deep into the soil. Well, those organics are taking nitrogen in the process. Would an early nitrogen source be necessary this spring to kick up the energy of the soil? What is the best chemical nitrogen source? What is the best organic nitrogen source? What type of soil do you have?

2/14/2006 1:23:53 PM

Owensboro, Ky.

c/rules...soil is quite clayish...heavy and compacts when moist...getting better but taking time to work down to good depth. Have added some gypsum, and quite a bit of compost. I do not have answers to your other questions...nitrogen sources...Question though...why wouldn't I want the organic material deep into the soil? All help appreciated. Peace, Wayne

2/14/2006 6:42:15 PM

New Carlisle IN

You been lookin' at my dairy?
Remember, I posted that just for a basicreference. Theres more to it than that andI ain't no expert.I think the best thing you can do here is listen to Tremor.
Terry

2/14/2006 6:51:46 PM

Midwest

When you get organics into the anaerobic zone you get toxic substances. I was told that putting organics into the top layer of the soil allows them to breakdown fast. I think there's a way to check how deep the aerobic zone is by digging down and observing the tilth and color of your soil. The color changes when you move to the anaerobic zone. I was asking about nitrogen since nitrogen is being taken up while the leaves are decomposing. Is there enough nitrogen left for your plant to thrive? Maybe you shouldn't be concerned at all? I don't know.

2/15/2006 2:04:31 PM