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Hinckley MN

as a new grower, what should I be doing to prepare for next year? I am planning to apply 1000 lbs of poultry manure, 1000 lbs of aged cow manure, 50 lbs of lime, 25 lbs of gypsum, and 25 lbs of kelp meal per plant (800 sqft). the soil is heavy clay and acidic (pH about 5.6). I'll also add wood ashes in the spring. I grew corn on that patch this year, but it was under fertilized and 200 lbs of spring applied lime was'nt enough.

9/22/2011 11:09:20 PM

Connecticut

get a soil test first

9/23/2011 6:24:37 AM

Johnston, R.I.

soil test is best bet

9/23/2011 6:46:42 AM

Williamsburg,KY

Soil test for sure. If not you will just be guessing.

9/23/2011 8:53:17 AM

Niagara Falls,NY

Farmer Ben,be carefull with that poultry manure.Poultry manure is very high in nitrogen.Get the soil test first,then follow their reccomendations.If you are low in nitrogen then the poultry manure,maybe not that much.

9/23/2011 4:37:02 PM

South Hero, VT

Joe Jutras applied a little too much chicken manure in 2008 and his pumpkins suffered because of it("Growing Giant Pumpkins SNGPG Style").

Soil test, soil test, soil test.

You also might want to age that chicken manure a year before you apply it.

clay soil responds best to deep rooted cover crops such as oil seed radish and alfalfa to name just 2.

9/23/2011 6:31:31 PM

Hinckley MN

Alfalfa doesn't do well this far north. it is too late for tillage radish. unimproved clay soil with a pH of almost 5 doesn't require a soil test to know I'm lacking in everything. I know the ph is just above 5 because of the pale leaves on the wild blueberries. if the pH was below 5 the blueberries wouldn't suffer from iron chlorosis on a red clay soil. if the pH was near 6 the blueberries wouldn't survive. layer manure has pH around 8.5, add 50 lbs of pel lime per plant with 1000lbs of layer manure and I should be near 6.5 pH. You need to know your soil. if you only know your soil through a soil test, then you need a soil test. if you know your soil through other measures, then that will suffice.

9/26/2011 8:53:10 PM

Owensboro, Ky.

Wowzers, Ben..., you sound like a smart fella, but folks was just tryin to help!!! I understand the knowing yer soil part, but being a lil nicer might get you some better responses!!!! Truly wishing you the best, next year!!! Peace, Wayne
PS...just curious? Calcium level in yer soil is?

9/27/2011 2:10:02 AM

Www.extremepumpkinstore.com

Ben, I understand your diagnosis of a PH level of almost 5. Unfortunately, these giants have requirements that are just a bit different than a normal garden or farm crops.
It is almost imperetive that you get a soil test and send it to a reputable lab, even better if it is a lab that deals with Giant Pumpkin growers, they have a better idea of what these plants need.
Wayne is correct, everyone is trying to help, we see the same questions season after season, and yes, there are stubborn folks that dont get tests and get lucky, and those who get frustrated and quit after a season or so.
The agronomist that I've talked to were amazed at what we do as growers and how we have fine tuned our soil.
You need to decide what you are looking to grow, a frew hundred lb fruit or a giant pumpkin.
I'm not looking to argue with you, but,having an idea of what your soil needs is good, knowing what it needs is the difrference between a successful season and a frustrating season.
Good luck to you.

9/27/2011 9:47:23 AM

Hinckley MN

Sorry, My back is out again and it makes me cranky. I shouldn't have helped load pumpkins with a tarp at Delano, cause I'm paying for it this week. Again, my apologies if I ofended you. I didn't mean to snap at anyone.

Wayne, the calcium level in the soil around here tends to be low until you use lime to adjust the pH. This year I fertilized my pumpkin patch to the level I like for corn and I grew one 900+ lb and two 600+ lb pumpkins. I also used alot of miracle Grow type fertilizers because it became obvious the patch was underfertilized. For next year I will start another new patch, from scratch. I want to avoid the chemical fertilizers and use primarily manure and compost. By fall applying the manure, it will break down some before May planting.
A pound per square foot of patch isn't really all that heavy either. when you calculate the tons per acre for field applications on corn and realize I want to be 2-3 times that fertility level, a little over a pound per square foot is about right. I've also seen recomendations of 2-5 yards of aged manure/compost per plant and this will be on the low end of that. Will it be too much? I guess I'll find out. Doesn't the saying go "If you ain't blowing them, you ain't growing them"?

9/27/2011 9:59:36 AM

Anamosa, IA BPIowegian@aol.com

Ben, if your soil is acidic clay, you obviously need to add lime and organic matter. Beside the manure, maple leaves supply good organic matter and break down quickly in the soil. After that is added and mixed in and left to sit over winter, a spring soil test will tell you what else you need to add. If you have a fall soil test but don't have an analysis of your manure and other amendments, you are still shooting in the dark and would need the spring test anyway.

9/27/2011 1:59:35 PM

Griffith, In

Ben, get an s3c test with recommendations and graphics from a & l labs west in Modesto, California,,,They have a website where you can find the form to send in with the sample,,,The test cost is only about $35 and well worth the expense,,,For prep, also consider adding maple leaves for organic matter in your soil,,,If you add them in the fall and till in with your other stuff, they will break down by spring.

9/27/2011 2:01:22 PM

Owensboro, Ky.

Ben, one other saying comes to mind!!! LOL & I truly wish you the best!!! That other saying came from Mr. Dick Wallace, I think? It is "The Bull Sh!! stops, when the tail gate drops!!" LOL Seriously...best of luck to you!!! Peace, Wayne
PS... Thanks Tom

9/27/2011 11:22:23 PM