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Clayton, Ohio, USA

This is my first year using drip tape. How do most of you water with the system? Once per day? Four times a day? Every other day? I have a low pressure system. What would be a ball park estimate of the ammount of time that I need to have it on? The tapes are 18" apart. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

7/7/2010 3:16:31 AM

Pataskala,OH

Once a day in the early morning. Mine is on for 1 hr works well for me.

7/7/2010 8:37:25 AM

Williamsburg,KY

Good question...how do you know when you have achieved the 1-2" weekly with a drip tape. Hope everyone chimes in. Thanks.

7/7/2010 10:50:03 AM

Smithville, Tn

Can anyone convert that to gallons per plant?? Plants are too big now to water by hand. Got the tape down, hooking the tanks up today. Using 2-250 gal.tanks for 4 plants.

7/7/2010 1:07:32 PM

Belgium Europe

I use one 250gal.tank for two plants every 3 days. I allways let it run just before i go to sleep , to avoid
evaporation .Plants don't get wet , so no need to water in the morning.

7/7/2010 1:23:41 PM

South Bloomfield, Ohio

One inch of rain per week equals roughly 80 gallons per day for the average plant of 750 sq. ft. Best way to judge the correct moisture content of your soil is with your hand. Water application is dependent mainly on your soil's retention capability. Plants in well-drained soils will require the 80 gallons.

7/7/2010 9:29:46 PM

Owensboro, Ky.

GPD, I sorta understand your "with your hand" moisture judgement, but want to know at what depth "your hand" needs to be when testing soil moisture. I have heavy clay type of soil, which has been ammended w/lots of compost! The top 3 or 4"'s dry out quickly, but down below that it stays quite damp. Thanks for your help!!! Peace, Wayne

7/8/2010 12:37:32 AM

South Bloomfield, Ohio

I would start out with a 1/2" of rain per week rule then Wayne. AG's will root 6" below the surface, so your situation is kinda tricky if the top three or four inches dry quickly. If it's staying damp down below, the plants are likely getting water, but the nutrients are in the composted soil area.

Too much or too little water is a bad thing. Too much water in the root zone doesn't allow for the exchange of gases and nutrients. Too little restricts the exchange. I used the 1" rule because my soil is well-drained.

7/8/2010 8:14:56 AM

Owensboro, Ky.

Thanks, dude, will try and readjust my drip and overhead to reach a growable medium!!! One plant left alive and lookin good!!! No rain here, combined w/ mid to high 90's, in the last 6 weeks has me sorta Mother Nature challenged!!! LOL Peace, Wayne

7/12/2010 12:59:19 AM

Pataskala,OH

giantpumpkindude What do you add to get the soil the way you have it? I have never seen a soil quite like the soil in your patch. Your plants and pumpkins look like they like it though.

7/12/2010 1:55:51 PM

South Bloomfield, Ohio

Nic,

This is new ground this year-the third and final patch in our rotation and is gravel-based, much like Quinn Werner's. The only thing I've done with this ground is a cover crop of rye and addition of potassium to my desired levels last fall. All other amendments such as phosphorous and nitrogen were applied in the spring.

The beauty of this type of soil is its drainage capability. It can withstand heavy rainfall without staying wet for long periods of time. However, I have to watch the plants closely in the spring for Nitrogen deficiency, as nitrogen leaches quickly here and organic matter content declines more rapidly.

7/12/2010 9:36:34 PM

Clayton, Ohio, USA

The ideal soil type for these things is a deep gravel, sand based. No ammount of ammending clay or silt will create this well drained healthy medium. It's not a soil type that is usually highly valued by farmers as it requires huge expenditures in irrigation and fertilizers. But for our purposes it is perfect.

7/13/2010 10:07:18 PM