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Location

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Date Posted

Macomb County

As Grower 1, I can start with a high amount of N, say 30-10-10, next balance it by switching to a high P, say 10-52-10 and complete the seasonal balance by switching to a high K, 0-0-56. And achieve a good result. As Grower 2, I can start with a very moderate amount of 20-20-20, switch to a very moderate amount of 8-12-8 and finally switch to a very moderate amount 8-8-12. And have the exact same good result Grower 1 did. As Grower 1, I balanced it out over the season and as Grower 2, I kept it in balance throughout the season. The only difference? As Grower 2, I risked myself to none of the problems, hardships, set backs and frustraing failures that Grower 1 routinely did.

7/14/2005 12:19:32 AM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

A comment is in order I think.

The validity of this theory is subject the soil's existing chemical condition. IE: If a soils's pH or background Phosphorus doesn't favor availability, then a 10-52-10 will under most conditions, do a better job. If 40 lbs of P were needed per acre & the grower instead chose to apply 8-12-8 to encourage flowering, then the plants would also recieve 30 lbs of Nitrogen at the same time. If the soils had also recieved some dry blood or had a legume cover crop tilled under, the Nitrogen rush could cause aborts for several weeks. The 10-52-10 would have only delivered 8 lbs of Nitrogen per acre.

The fact a certain fertilizer has a higher analysis than another doesn't mean it is "safer" to use. If both fertilizers are derived from the same exact sources, then the only real difference is the ratios of blend & the inclusion of fillers. Fillers are a waste of money under ALL conditions. Ratio changes are designed to tailor the results when the end user knows what is needed based on soil test results & actual crop need.

7/14/2005 6:34:52 AM

Ctpumpkin@optonline.net

The same argument can be made for every analysis. I only speak to one since it isn't January yet. LOL

7/14/2005 6:36:00 AM

Owensboro, Ky.

From what I have read from you so far, Grower 2 applies all of these products in a below minimum suggested rate. Is this correct? What % of suggested rate would be appropriate. 1/2...1/3...1/4? Thanks Peace Wayne

7/14/2005 6:36:18 AM

Appalachian Mtns.

I believe your statement makes logical sense.
A 10-52-10 and 0-0-56 are such extreme in their ranges that the plant will surely feel the stress effects. Better to go with a smoother balance, less stress, and use less extreme 8-12-8 and 8-8-12 ferts.
However, a properly prepared and balanced soil base will negate the use of commercial fertilizers to begin with. Lots of OM and manures added over several years time will provide all the nutrient needs for your plants the entire season so the use of harsh fertilizers won't be necessary.

7/14/2005 7:13:37 AM

Cologne / Germany

Count me in for the grower 2 method. I usually start with 20-20-20 blue granular in spring (evenly spreading by hand after tilling) and water, that´s okay for 6-8 weeks. Same method as for any other vegetable. The result in most cases is a healthy green growing plant with lots of flowers as long as it´s not too cold and wet - which is not a fertilzer issue of course. So what more do you want at this time?
Later in the season, I don´t think "fertilizer pushing" of the plant / fruit makes much sense. Plant health care is more important and the fruit development is a genetic issue anyway. When I used 0-0-52 water soluble one time I had a good leaf burn but no "jumping" pumpkins, so what for?

7/14/2005 7:56:16 AM

Western NY

count me in as number 3.

get your soil built up with manures and compost. only add in a little fish and seaweed with your watering through the season. adding in any chemicals at this point is only going to slow down my growth.

7/14/2005 8:32:38 AM

Menomonie, WI (mail@gr8pumpkin.net)

#3 here

7/14/2005 9:10:03 AM

Menomonie, WI (mail@gr8pumpkin.net)

#3 here

7/14/2005 9:10:03 AM

Berlin,mi.(zuhlke2@hotmail.com)

#3 here also. if you look in my diary you will see miracle grow* listed as ferts added but it isn't miracle grow. i am trying the launce product and some of the other products that marty told us about in his early post. but i put it down as miracle grow just to keep track of when i use it. i have only used neptunes fish seaweed in at a very reduced rate on most plants. i hope to have a good comparison by the end of the season.

7/14/2005 9:48:41 AM

Montoursville, PA

Fifty years of gardening here! I have never (hardly ever) used synthetic fertilizers in my soil. Guess I am grower #3 too.

My best buddy a first year grower last year grew an 845 and a 1019 using allmost nothing but manures, minerals and foliar with fish, kelp and molasses. Think I hatched another Grower #3.

7/14/2005 10:32:25 AM

Minnesota(dw447@fastmail.fm)

#3 here as well.

7/14/2005 11:03:25 AM

Macomb County

Wayne, I keep it at 1/4 to 1/2 tsp per gallon at most. I've found any more and it creates those dangerous sudden growth spurts, especially at the end. On Grower #3, Dan Carlson said he was pushing a 1400lber with no added fert at all last year. The problems I've encountered with #3 have been either my plants begin to show a definite N deficiency, meaning perhaps I didn't incoorperate enough. Or when I have, my soil ph becomes too acid and I begin to experience an N deficiency, amoung others, that way no less. See anything in there I should notice?

7/14/2005 5:31:04 PM

White Bear Lake, Minnesota

I wish I could say I was a #3, but I put on some 15-30-15 Miracle grow to encourage blossoms, on July 1st. It worked and I finally have some baby pumpkins started. Even with the heat. I hope they hang in there. Other than the one time with Miracle Grow, it's been Neptunes and molasses and an early spring application of kelp meal and corn meal. The worms are coming back!!

7/15/2005 3:05:31 AM

Follansbee, Wv

I guess I'm a number 4. Heavy manures last winter, nothing since except for compost tea/alfalfa drenches and foliar fish and seaweed EXCEPT for the single application of some 12-55-6 to boost bloom/fruit production.

7/15/2005 7:42:47 AM

Appalachian Mtns.

The N deficiency, if there is one, can be counteracted with the addition of blood meal in May, before the plants really start spreading out....in my experience. It takes a little bit of time for the BM to "kick" in and replenish what may be lost by growth, but it'll do it, slowly and gently without shocking the plants. However, in my situation I use a potent blend of compost in which case an N deficiency is impossible in my patch.

7/15/2005 6:34:18 PM